The Gap of Choice

 

                                                              THE GAP OF CHOICE

Our host Sheila kept saying how the Gap of Dunloe would be good today and you couldn’t help but respect the opinion of someone who’d lived here for decades.  The Gap of Dunloe was one of the main things I wanted to see in Ireland but, after Healy Pass and Cummeenduff Glen, I wondered just how good it would be.

We set off up the climb that few do, because it’s on the “wrong” side.  The few residents over this side and adventurous tourists are all that make it.  It’s pretty leaving the glen behind, wondering just what’s over the pass.  The term "Dunloe" is believed to be an Anglicisation of the Irish term "Dún Lóich", meaning fort or stronghold of Lóich (the River Loe that runs through the Gap of Dunloe valley’).

Well, 100 walkers can’t be wrong!  They were scattered all over the 1 ½ lane (in the good bits) road with, thankfully, lots of laybys for passing and pedestrians.  The road would be a rally driver’s dream.  Most of the bends you can’t see around, there are half a dozen sharp crests where you could easily have a head-on; throw in the horse drawn carriages that take the lazy tourists up and down, the careless sheep and the walkers and, if you’re not awake when you start, I can personally guarantee your eyes will be agog by the time you reach the end. 

Mind you, part of the reason is the scenery; it is so different, a bit wonderful and the numerous stone bridges just add to its appeal.  The latter allow you to cross the appropriately named Black Lake which is mysterious in its opaqueness, especially if you’re from Australia and unaccustomed to dark waters.  The whole area carved by receding glaciers, with scant vegetation as yet, there’s an eeriness about it, especially when the mist rises in the morning and uncovers the deserted row of farmhouses from the 19^th C.

By this time Lorraine and I were fairly well done in from our sleepless night and the morning walk but we managed to take a few pics before heading to Muckross Castle and Garden, past Kate Kearney’s Cottage (and attendant pubs and cafes) at the base of the climb from where all the horses start.  Kate apparently used to dispense a special Kate Kearney’s Mountain Dew, labelled to distil the fact that it was illegal alcohol, but that’s an Irish thing.

            

We were a bit early for a guided tour of the Muckross mansion so we took the garden option and here we were found out.  After about 10 minutes walking we really wanted to go home and crash so we gave the grand house a miss and made our way back to the car, stopping for a very early dinner break in Killarney before heading back up Dunloe.  The conditions were superb for photography but, when Lorraine is of a mind to do something she won’t be persuaded otherwise so I only managed half a dozen snaps under duress before we crossed the pass back to Shamrock.