MOKI DUGWAY – BLAME EDWARD!

"May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view."      Edward Abbey.

It rises before you.  The immediate thought is "Surely the road doesn't go up there?". There must be a turn somewhere, but no, it does, and it will be much to your surprise and everything that Edward Abbey suggested.

The thing is, vegetation is sparse in these arid lands, it's the rocks that rule and impress.  Oh my, do they impress.  Their majesty is undeniable.

The cliff is getting closer; no way is there a road there. 

I'm the only car anywhere in view.  My exploratory nature deigns that, from time to time, I'll end up in a situation like this.  Stuck out on some weird pathway, miles from any civilization, not confident of where I am; except, I’m in America and it has an ocean either side.  Stands to reason that I’ll know where I am sooner or later.

Then I’m at the base, signs warn of speed restrictions as the tar comes to an end but, since they’re in m.p.h., what do I know?  Just 5 m.p.h., whatever that means, and you know America’s never going to catch up with the rest of the world.

 There’s another factor that comes to light, it’s gravel.  Oh, my goodness.  From the parched valley I’m steadily rising, dust emanating from the tyres, especially at the switchbacks.  Halfway up I find it disturbing.  I later read it’s number one on the list of the scariest roads in Utah, “eminently dramatic” “death defying” and remote, seriously remote; no NRMA here, you’re on your own and at an average of 11 degrees ascent and I’ve just driven from the “Valley of the Gods”, perhaps I am unknowingly en route to heaven?

Another car on the route constitutes a serious rise in traffic numbers, but there aren’t any initially.

I’m fascinated, it’s simply the most breathtaking drive I’ve ever been on because you can see so far and how the way manages to get into those cliffs I find extraordinary.

The term “moki” is derived from the Spanish word “moqui,” which was used by explorers to describe the Pueblo Indians they encountered in this region, as well as the Ancestral Puebloan culture that once inhabited the area. “Dugway” is a term used to describe a roadway that has been carved into a hillside.  I can’t believe anyone could live in the area, it’s so barren.

Almost at the top there’s provision to pull over and gaze across the amazing landscape you’ve just driven through. After a few snaps I’m on my uncertain way again.  The plateau is flat and the driving easy until then, out from the scrub, two people emerge, both males and they’re thumbing for a lift…well, one of them is anyway.  Checking for any bulges in their attire, I pull up.  They’ve just finished a multi-day walk in some canyon or other and would like to get back to their car.  I can understand that, it’s the sort of thing I’d ask for and we’re soon on our way.  Well, one is, the other awaits his return, minding their packs and tents while he does.

Another reason I stopped was to find out just where I am.  According to my passenger, I’m going the wrong way is where I am.  At the intersection where I got onto the Dugway, I should have eased left.  Not to worry, just have to go down America’s most dangerous road to get back on track.  It’s that kind of day, that kind of trip, and I’m loving it!

This  aerial shot borrowed from the Utah government files